The Jade Buddha Temple is a very lively shrine a good way west of where we are staying. It took Fiona and me about 40 minutes to get there from her apartment, on two different trains, and then a 15-minute walk through a fascinating neighborhood, parts of which were very old. You can see here some of the old buildings with their terra cotta roofing tiles, and modern Shanghai in the background.
It cost 10 Yuan a piece to get in to the temple, and then another 10 a piece to see the actual Jade Buddha in a upstairs sanctuary. The Temple grounds are actually a compound that includes many buildings and walkways and outdoor courtyards. In the first courtyard, there were braziers lit so that worshipers could light their incense sticks. Just off that courtyard was a shrine to the Four Devas, each of which was represented by a huge (twice life-size) statue in bronze or stone, and each of which had his own altar for offering incense, libations, flowers, coins, etc. There were many worshipers that day. One of the Temple personnel told us it was a special day, and gave us incense sticks to burn, which we were happy to do. The air was so filled with ash, that some of it landed in Fiona's hair. After paying our respects to the Devas, we followed instructions to head upstairs, where we found this small jade buddha on an altar with this exquisite embroidered picture of what I take to be a bodhisattva. Next to it was the huge mahagony laughing buddha (next picture).
The Buddha laughs at the idea that riches can make one happy, but everyone is invited to rub his tummy for "good luck" anyway. We avoided buying any of the thousands of items available for sale in that upstairs room. They ran from sublime (hundreds of thousands of dollars for exquisite jade and wood carvings and unbelievable embroidery) to paltry (and not worth the paltry price).
The actual Jade Buddha cannot be photographed. We got a free postcard of it, but will have to remember the experienced of visiting that sanctuary.
Monks in saffron robes strolled around the grounds, chatting.
The actual Jade Buddha cannot be photographed. We got a free postcard of it, but will have to remember the experienced of visiting that sanctuary.
Monks in saffron robes strolled around the grounds, chatting.
We were, however, able to photograph the reclining Buddha. My friend Rob tells me that this posture represents the dying Buddha, who is preparing for death by poison (accidental or murderous -- there is some question) with perfect serenity. Worshipers gathered here to make their prayers, obeisances and offerings, as well as at many other places within the temple grounds. It strikes me as a good system: on a holy day, you get to the temple when you can, you make your prayers and offerings at your own pace, and don't have to attend a scheduled service.
We watched a master calligrapher at work. He explained that he does this as a volunteer, to raise money for the temple.
Worshipers took time to copy, by hand, one of the inscriptions from the huge bell on display in one of the courtyards. You can catch a glimpse of the reclining buddha behind it. To the rear of the photographer is the huge, stone statue of the many-armed goddess of mercy. I said